1) The playing area consists of the court and a safety space around it measuring 10 feet in each direction. (50' x 80') (If you don't have this space, smaller courts can be built, call for recommendations). The space above the playing area should be free of obstructions. The playing area should be level and consist of good quality sand to a thickness which prevents players from contacting the underlying surface.
2) Dimensions of the court are 60 feet by 30 feet and are measured from the outer edge of the boundary lines. The boundary lines should be made of brightly colored tape or rope having similar characteristics (Note: Ropes can sometimes leave burns if you contact them accidentally, thick nylon tape is what is recommended and what the professionals use). (For safety reasons we recommend removing the lines at night to protect people from tripping and injuring themselves).
3) The plane of the net serves as an invisible center line of the court, dividing it into two halves.
4) Poles supporting the volleyball net should be made of galvanized metal, treated wood (6 x 6's or larger are preferred with sanded edges, 4 x 4's tend to bend too much) or other material that will withstand tension and not bend or break when stressed. It is also a good idea to pad the poles to protect players using your court.
5) Supports should be approximately 10.5-16 feet long and cemented into a concrete footing measuring at least 1 foot in diameter and 3 feet deep. They don't have to be cemented in place but should be. Supports should be free of hazardous protrusions. If you use guy wires, they should be made of bright colors or padded to prevent injury to players. All anchors for guy wires and boundary lines should be buried at least 12-18 inches under the surface of the sand and free of sharp edges.
6) The court area should be excavated to a 1-1/2 to 3 foot depth depending on how well your future court site drains. You will need to install drainage ditch leading away from the lowest point of the court. Perforated drainage pipe should be laid across the court with one end capped and the other open to the drainage ditch. Proper drainage is extremely important, or you could find yourself playing in a giant mud puddle. (Even if the court is built above ground, sand will still retain water!)
7) Depending on how well your soil drains overlay the court area with a one-foot thickness of smooth rounded gravel. Above the gravel place burlap or landscape fabric to prevent sand from washing through into the base gravel. Deposit one-to-two feet of beach sand or washed masonry sand over the area and rake level. The more washed the sand is the less dusty it will be. (When testing sand for purchase wear shorts and test the sand in both dry and wet conditions by kneeling down onto it knees first, "no scrapes, no problem," scrapes, scrap it and keep shopping.)
2) Dimensions of the court are 60 feet by 30 feet and are measured from the outer edge of the boundary lines. The boundary lines should be made of brightly colored tape or rope having similar characteristics (Note: Ropes can sometimes leave burns if you contact them accidentally, thick nylon tape is what is recommended and what the professionals use). (For safety reasons we recommend removing the lines at night to protect people from tripping and injuring themselves).
3) The plane of the net serves as an invisible center line of the court, dividing it into two halves.
4) Poles supporting the volleyball net should be made of galvanized metal, treated wood (6 x 6's or larger are preferred with sanded edges, 4 x 4's tend to bend too much) or other material that will withstand tension and not bend or break when stressed. It is also a good idea to pad the poles to protect players using your court.
5) Supports should be approximately 10.5-16 feet long and cemented into a concrete footing measuring at least 1 foot in diameter and 3 feet deep. They don't have to be cemented in place but should be. Supports should be free of hazardous protrusions. If you use guy wires, they should be made of bright colors or padded to prevent injury to players. All anchors for guy wires and boundary lines should be buried at least 12-18 inches under the surface of the sand and free of sharp edges.
6) The court area should be excavated to a 1-1/2 to 3 foot depth depending on how well your future court site drains. You will need to install drainage ditch leading away from the lowest point of the court. Perforated drainage pipe should be laid across the court with one end capped and the other open to the drainage ditch. Proper drainage is extremely important, or you could find yourself playing in a giant mud puddle. (Even if the court is built above ground, sand will still retain water!)
7) Depending on how well your soil drains overlay the court area with a one-foot thickness of smooth rounded gravel. Above the gravel place burlap or landscape fabric to prevent sand from washing through into the base gravel. Deposit one-to-two feet of beach sand or washed masonry sand over the area and rake level. The more washed the sand is the less dusty it will be. (When testing sand for purchase wear shorts and test the sand in both dry and wet conditions by kneeling down onto it knees first, "no scrapes, no problem," scrapes, scrap it and keep shopping.)

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